Living in Nepal
This is a very difficult question to answer because experiences vary dramatically amongst individuals. In an effort to simplify things, let’s narrow the focus to “What’s it like for an expatriate family living in Kathmandu?” It’s safe to say that the experience depends upon many factors: for example, a sense of humor, expectations, mental and physical state of health, family dynamics, economic factors, etc. Generally speaking, however, the majority of families enjoy their stays here tremendously. A clear indication of this is that they strongly miss Nepal once they move on.
Can my family and I be happy living in Kathmandu?
Yes, you really can! Kathmandu offers (almost) everything the expatriate could desire: fine dining, excellent holiday destinations, western groceries, good schools for children, good housing with all mod cons, affordable domestic help, and lots of other things. Check out some of our links for maps, details, and directories below.
What’s Kathmandu like?
Kathmandu is situated in a large valley surrounded by the Mahabarrat mountains. It is actually 3 cities, Kathmandu, Patan, and Bhaktapur. As the population steadily increases, it is not as easy to see where one city ends and another starts (especially between Patan and Kathmandu, which are separated only by a river and a bridge!) The Kathmandu Valley is a truly magical place. Of course, as all developing cities do, it is facing all sorts of growing pains such as air, water, and noise pollution, traffic congestion, and overcrowding. However, the positive points far outweigh these inconveniences. For example, even if you don’t see the snowy white-capped Himmalayas every day, you still see beautiful 2000m mountains from any vantage point and in any direction. In addition, ancient art and architecture can be found just about everywhere; and temples and shrines are part of the visual fabric of any walk or drive around the city. It’s a classic yet unique example of modernization juxtaposed with age-old traditions. Picture a five-hundred-year-old handcrafted temple bustling with worshippers carrying offerings of flowers, fruit and incense, and all the while taking tikkas and ringing sacred bells, all around a chowk (roundabout) reverberating with the rumblings, thuds, beeps, and clangs of at least 5 different types of transportation (motorcycles, cars, bicycles, trucks, tempos) vying for space to travel.
What is the cost of living like?
If you’re living on a western salary, it’s incredibly cheap. Housing can vary significantly, from $200 to $1,000 per month, depending on location, size of home, and facilities available. Domestic help ranges from about $50 to $100 per month. Most expats opt to have a cook, and at least one general helper (cleaning, laundry, babysitting). Families with small children often hire a nanny (didi).
A relationship with a household employee is a personal one; you will need time to establish it. There are many good people available, but it is wise to question past employers if possible. Wages vary. Expats often have a cook/house-person for about $70 to $90 per month. Many houses have reasonable yards and a good mali (gardener) can be hired for $45 to $65 per month. Sometimes a house servant will do the laundry; often a dhobi (washing-man) will pick up your laundry twice a week for $10-$20 per month. Generally, there is not a fear of violent crime among foreigners in Kathmandu, but as a precaution, as burglaries are possible, most people hire a chowkidhar (watchman) for approximately $35-$55 per month. A combination mali/chowkidar is useful (about $45-$60 per month), and a "didi" can do housework, wash clothing and care for children for $50-65 per month. There are many possible combinations of household help which you can secure upon arrival.
Eating out
Eating out can cost anywhere from $1 for a plate of momos (Mariano do you want to translate this?) to $50 for high class dining with drinks. Kathmandu has a wide variety of restaurants with reputations for cleanliness and safety. These conditions do change, so you will want to rely on recommendations from people who are here when you arrive.
Shopping
Most of the products you will need are available in the local market. There are several large supermarkets where most goods can be found. A wide variety of drugs and medicines are available and the pharmacists are generally fluent in English. Again, more information will be available when you arrive.
Medicine
Many prescription and non-prescription medicines are available here over the counter. Be sure, though, to bring a year’s supply of more specialized medications.
Fun and Games
Video tapes and DVDs are available in Kathmandu and most people appreciate having a VCR/DVD player. If this is a source of entertainment in your life, bring tapes/DVDs to trade and share. Because of the wide variety of systems available, a multi-system would maximize your viewing. An NTSC system (what we have in the States) will allow you to easily trade videos with other families, whereas a PAL system will allow you to rent a broad range of tapes in the market. A multisystem machine will play both. To help you decide, a multisystem TV, 21", color will range in cost from $450 to $600 for a SONY. A VCR, play only, will cost about $200 and up.
There are several good bookstores in Kathmandu, but you should bring your own board games, tennis rackets and balls (available but expensive), musical instruments, and other materials for hobbies.
Film is available locally. The processing of color print and slide is available, and is good and inexpensive.
The decision as to what to bring or not to bring rests more on how much weight you have available in your air-freight, as most things are available, although sometimes at a higher cost.
What to see in and around Kathmandu?
Kathmandu Durbar Square: This is a large square in front of the old royal palace of Kathmandu. There are many pagoda-style temples around the palace square. There are also important historical landmarks in the vicinity. One of the historical monuments is the Kasthamandap, after which Kathmandu was named. Close to the Durbar square is the house of the living Goddess (Kumari), located in a courtyard guarded by stone lions.
Patan and Bhaktapur: These cities also have similar durbar squares but with different layouts. Both Patan and Bhaktapur Durbar squares have museums with valuable pieces of art from different periods in their history. The stone temple of Krishna at the Patan Durbar Square is regarded as unique and worth visiting.
Swayambhunath: The Buddhist Temple of Swayambhunath, situated on the top of a hill west of the city, is one of the most popular and instantly recognizable symbols of Nepal. It is also referred to as “Monkey Temple” because of the large number of monkeys which guard the hill and the surrounding forest. A long stairway leads to the stupa at the top of the hill from where the whole valley can be seen with all its landmarks.
Bodhnath: This is the other great stupa of the Valley and the largest in Nepal. With its three all-seeing eyes the stupa sits on flat land as a crown above pastel-painted facades of shops and houses. All around the stupa are shops and houses where people of Tibetan origin live and sell their wares. It is a bustling town that looks like little Tibet.
Pashupatinath: This is regarded as the holiest shrine of the Hindus and is situated on the bank of the Bagmati River. Beside the river also lies the cremation site. Thousands of Hindus make pilgrimages to this temple every year.
Transport and Communication
Due to population growth and urbanization during the past few years, Kathmandu’s streets have become quite congested. Movement within the city can sometimes be time-consuming. Traffic jams have become more and more common because of the increasing number of vehicles being imported into the country. The government recently banned the use of three-wheel auto-rickshaws because of dangerous levels of air pollution. However, metered taxis are easy to find. Even though normally the fare is what is shown on the meter, the taxi drivers ask for more in the evening, particularly if it is late. Public transport is difficult because the buses are usually very crowded and stop operating in the early evening.
Where to Shop?
Kathmandu is a shopper’s paradise whether you are looking for an inexpensive souvenir or a real work of art. Although you can find almost anything in the tourist areas of Kathmandu, there are specific specialties in different parts of the Valley. While shopping, you should remember that there is a lot of bargaining especially in tourist areas. The major hotels, too, have shopping arcades where a variety of handicrafts are available. The following places are recommended:
Thamel
This is the area where most of the budget tourists visiting Nepal stay and shop. There are numerous little shops selling handicrafts, clothes, carpets and even trekking gear. The prices are more reasonable than in the hotels and larger shops.
Babar Mahal Revisited
This is a new shopping complex with many stores and restaurants. Located in a lovely restored Rana palace, these shops contain all kinds of handicrafts from Nepal and India, jewelry, hand-made paper and cashmere shawls and scarves.
Bead Bazaar
The Bead Bazaar is located in the heart of Kathmandu. While the bead bazaar is well-known for a variety of beads and beaded handicrafts, there are also other shops in the neighborhood where other Nepalese products can be bought.
Tibetan Refugee Camp
Originally established for Tibetan refugees, this area has many small shops selling Tibetan carpets, old and new. You can also see the carpet weavers at work. Master Weaver has excellent choices of classic handmade Tibetan carpets.
Apartment Pics